June offers one of the most interesting birthstone choices in the calendar. GIA recognises pearl, alexandrite and moonstone for the month. In this article I focus on pearl and alexandrite because they represent two opposite but complementary forms of beauty. Pearl is organic, soft and formed within a living mollusk. Alexandrite is a rare crystalline gemstone whose colour can change dramatically under different light sources.

When I teach gemology, I often use these two gems to show why the word precious cannot be reduced to hardness or price. A pearl may be delicate yet culturally timeless. Alexandrite may be extremely rare yet almost unknown to the wider public. The value of each depends on understanding its nature rather than judging it by diamond standards.

For VITALE 1913, the pairing is particularly meaningful. Our identity joins Mediterranean sensitivity with technical gemology, family continuity with contemporary design and Monaco with Italian craftsmanship. Pearl and alexandrite speak exactly this language: heritage and change.

Pearl: an organic gem created by a living organism

Pearls form inside certain saltwater or freshwater mollusks. When an irritant or implanted nucleus is surrounded by layers of nacre, the material gradually develops the lustre and surface character we recognise as pearl.

Natural pearls form without deliberate human intervention and are exceptionally rare in today's market. Cultured pearls are also real pearls: human specialists initiate the process, and the mollusk then deposits nacre. GIA explains that cultured pearls account for the vast majority of pearl sales because historic pearl fishing severely reduced many natural beds.

This distinction matters. Natural, cultured and imitation pearls can look similar to an untrained eye but have very different origins and values. A proper report or expert examination can identify growth structure, often using X-radiography, and distinguish a natural pearl from a bead-nucleated or non-bead cultured pearl and from an imitation.

The principal types of cultured pearl

Akoya pearls

Akoya cultured pearls, associated especially with Japan and China, are admired for sharp lustre, generally round shapes and classic white to cream colours, often with rose, silver or green overtones. They are traditionally used in refined necklaces and earrings. Their elegance works naturally with the understated dress codes of Monaco and the Côte d'Azur.

South Sea pearls

South Sea cultured pearls are generally larger, with white, silver or golden colours. They are produced in regions extending from northern Australia through Indonesia and parts of Southeast Asia. Their size, satiny lustre and rarity make them suitable for important earrings, pendants and statement necklaces.

Tahitian pearls

Tahitian cultured pearls are grown primarily in French Polynesia. The word black is convenient but incomplete: colours can include charcoal, green, aubergine, peacock, silver and blue. Their darker palette offers a modern, architectural alternative to the conventional white pearl and pairs beautifully with white diamonds, blackened gold or clean Art Deco lines.

Freshwater pearls

China is the dominant producer of freshwater cultured pearls. These gems offer a very broad range of shapes, sizes and natural colours, including white, cream, pink, peach and lavender. High-quality freshwater pearls can have excellent lustre and near-round form, while baroque examples are prized for individuality.

The seven factors that determine pearl value

GIA's pearl value framework considers size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, nacre quality and matching.

Lustre is often the first factor I examine. Fine lustre creates bright, sharp reflections and a sense that light comes from within the surface. A dull pearl may be large and round but lacks life. Surface quality concerns the number and visibility of blemishes, although minor natural marks are expected. Nacre quality affects durability and the depth of appearance. Shape ranges from round to drop, oval, button, circled and baroque. Roundness is rare, but a beautifully balanced baroque pearl can be more artistic than a mechanically perfect sphere.

Matching is important in a strand or pair. The pearls should be intentionally coherent in size, colour, lustre, shape and surface. Perfect uniformity is not always the goal; graduated or intentionally mixed designs can be sophisticated, but the variation must look designed rather than accidental.

Pearl design: tradition without nostalgia

Pearls are sometimes described as conservative. I disagree. The conservative element is usually the design, not the material. A single South Sea pearl on a clean gold line can look highly contemporary. Tahitian pearls can be architectural. Baroque pearls introduce sculpture and movement. Pearls combined with coral tones, natural diamonds or coloured gemstones can create a distinctly Mediterranean language.

At VITALE 1913, we consider the wearer's age, style and context. A classic strand may be exactly right for a family heirloom, while a younger client may prefer asymmetric earrings or a transformable piece. Monaco requires versatility: a jewel may move from a private lunch to a yacht, a gala or an evening at the Hôtel de Paris. Good design allows that transition without becoming theatrical.

The Maison's ocean-related projects, including Mare Nostrum, also make pearl conceptually relevant. We do not claim that every pearl jewel belongs to that collection, but the organic relationship between water, living systems and beauty is part of our wider Mediterranean narrative.

Responsible pearl sourcing

Pearl cultivation depends on water quality because mollusks are sensitive to pollution and environmental change. Well-managed farms can create economic incentives to protect coastal and lagoon ecosystems, although environmental and labour standards vary by producer.

Our approach is to work through documented suppliers, identify the pearl type and cultured status, disclose treatments and preserve available origin information. We avoid presenting cultured pearls as natural pearls and do not use the word untreated without evidence. Bleaching, dyeing, irradiation and coating can be used in the pearl market; their relevance and acceptability depend on the material, stability, disclosure and price.

Ethical language must be specific. A beautiful lagoon photograph is not proof of responsible production. Documentation, supplier due diligence and honest description are the basis of trust.

Caring for pearls

Pearls are relatively soft, around 2.5 to 3 on the Mohs scale, and their organic surface is vulnerable to acids, cosmetics, perfume and abrasion. Put pearls on after perfume, hairspray and makeup. Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth after wear. Store them separately from harder gemstones and do not seal them for long periods in a plastic bag, which can release damaging chemicals or create an unsuitable environment.

Pearl strands should be checked periodically. Traditional knotting protects the pearls from rubbing and prevents the entire strand from scattering if the thread breaks. Depending on wear, restringing may be necessary. Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.

The best pearl care is simple: last on, first off, wiped after wear and stored away from harder jewels.

Alexandrite: a gemstone that changes with the light

Alexandrite is a rare variety of chrysoberyl. Its defining characteristic is colour change: fine examples appear green to bluish green in daylight or fluorescent light and red to purplish red under incandescent light. The effect results from the way the gem absorbs light, combined with the spectral composition of the illumination.

The original major deposits were discovered in Russia's Ural Mountains in the nineteenth century, and the gem was named in connection with the future Tsar Alexander II. Russian material acquired legendary status because strong red and green colours echoed imperial military colours. Today, alexandrite also comes from Brazil, Sri Lanka, East Africa and other localities.

Fine alexandrite is rare because several conditions must coincide: attractive daylight colour, attractive incandescent colour, a strong degree of change, good transparency, useful size and sound cut. Many stones are brownish, greyish or weak in one lighting condition. Large, clean examples with vivid change can command very high prices.

Evaluating alexandrite

I evaluate both colour states, not just the more attractive photograph. A seller may show a green image under one lamp and a red image under another, but the client should understand how the stone behaves in normal environments. The percentage and quality of the colour change, tone, saturation, transparency, cut and carat weight all matter.

Cutting alexandrite requires judgement because the cutter must orient the crystal to display the best colour change while retaining weight. Ovals and cushions are common, but rounds, pears and other shapes exist. Windowing or excessive darkness can reduce beauty.

Alexandrite is relatively durable, about 8.5 on the Mohs scale, making it suitable for rings when properly set. Nevertheless, any significant stone should be protected from hard impact, and the setting should be inspected over time.

Natural, synthetic and imitation alexandrite

Synthetic alexandrite and colour-change synthetic corundum have existed for decades. Some products are sold loosely as alexandrite even when they are not chrysoberyl. A strong colour change alone does not prove natural origin or mineral identity.

For a significant purchase, an independent coloured-stone report is essential. It should identify the species and variety, natural or laboratory-grown origin, detectable treatments and, when scientifically supportable, geographic origin. IGI's coloured-stone reports and other recognised laboratory services use advanced testing to make these distinctions.

The report does not determine whether the colour is beautiful or the price is fair. That still requires examination and market knowledge. Because alexandrite can be unfamiliar to many clients, the seller's responsibility to explain it is even greater.

Designing with alexandrite

Alexandrite is ideal for a private jewel because it rewards the wearer with a secret: the piece changes character between day and evening. In a ring, the centre stone can be framed by natural diamonds to clarify both colour states. In a pendant, a lower-risk setting allows a more delicate stone. Rose gold can complement the red state, while white metal can emphasise green and blue tones; mixed-metal solutions can acknowledge both.

A bespoke alexandrite jewel is also an intelligent choice for a client who wants rarity without immediate public recognition. It is less predictable than a conventional coloured stone and therefore particularly appropriate for collectors, June birthdays and milestone gifts that celebrate transformation.

Pearl and alexandrite together: continuity and change

The two gems can be combined, but the concept is more important than forcing them into the same piece. Pearl represents continuity, organic growth and quiet light. Alexandrite represents change, rarity and response to environment. One is shaped by layers; the other reveals two identities.

This makes June birthstone jewellery especially rich for storytelling. A pearl jewel can mark a wedding, birth or inheritance. Alexandrite can mark a reinvention, an achievement or a new stage in life. For a mother and daughter, partners or siblings, the two stones can form related but individual pieces.

Frequently asked questions

A private invitation